Fiesta in My Mouth!
What can I say about Spain? So the pace is a little slower and life a bit simpler…but what’s wrong with that? A week in this beautiful and passionate country has left me relaxed and with an appetite for more. Spain is a country that has kept up with the rest of the developing world but has not forgotten where it came from. As a tourist, getting around could only be simpler if there weren’t so many one-way and pedestrian-only streets but that is what keeps the Spanish history preserved and alive. If exploring was too easy we wouldn’t appreciate the effort taken to ‘discover’ the real gems.
Starting in Madrid for a stag weekend I was introduced to the modern Spain. This involved buying ice-cold beers from dodgy west-asians on the street and nibbling on pizza at 4am, all in the company of half a dozen chefs. The next night, after a day of stagly antics and lounging about in beautiful squares, we evolved to sampling tapas in one of the best markets in the city, followed by more tapas in bar after bar, hunting down the specialities of each kitchen.
At the ‘Meson del Champinon’, for example, we ate mushrooms grilled with the offcuts of Iberican ham, garlic, herbs and oil. Simple and delicious. It may be a cliche to eat in such a tourist-flooded place but the food was genuine, generous and simple. The staff had been there for years (one of them twenty-four years and counting!) and they took genuine pride in their menu which consisted of only four or five specialities. We also sampled Boquerones en Escabeche (pickled anchovies), the unrelenting ‘patatas bravas’ and one of my favourites, sauteed baby green peppers – they always slip a hot
green chilli in there somewhere! After far too much eating and an over-consumption of beer and sangria we stumbled into a fantastic flamenco bar, ‘Arco de Cuchilleros’. Again, it was in all the tourist guides but we left feeling more than satisfied, especially with yet more of the fantastic Iberican arorn-fed cured ham, served at a rather humid room temperature leaving our fingers succulently greasy.
After a short sleep and a fun day of stag-related events and embarrassment, I joined my better half and her mother to continue our week of exploring and digesting.
I introduced them to the culinary haunts of the previous night for our dinner we had a good kip and headed off to Toledo, a world heritage protected town perched on a hill surrounded by a river on three sides. The highlight dish was a typical Toledan stew called ‘carcamusas’, made from pork and traditionally served in an earthenware pot. We were served this with a selection of ‘snacks’ based around sliced of baguette topped with flavours such as brie, roasted peppers, Iberican cured ham and the like.
After getting our fill in Toledo we made our way to Cordoba. With late notice we were lucky to get a room at one of the comfy hotels in the historic part of town known as The Juderia. The hotel came complete with its own patio, the traditional garden in the center of so many restored buildings in Spain. It was the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast the next morning.
That night we headed to a recommended restaurant, ‘Bodegas Mezquita’, directly opposite the ancient Mezquita (which is a mosque with a christian church inside). We enjoyed a variety of tapas including oxtail croquettes and crispy-fried calamari. This was followed by another hit of flamenco dancing and music at ‘Tablao Cardenal’. Impressive stuff!
After a bit more sightseeing the next day, we continued on our journey to Seville. Our accommodation was again in the historic centre, close to the sights and only a minute’s walk to any of a dozen restaurants. We did the usual sightseeing and ended up eating dinner at one of our guidebook’s recommended restaurants, ‘Restaurante Corral del Agua’ which had the most beautiful courtyard full of trees and ceramics dotted around the walls. Our maitre’d gave us the most wonderful service and stayed to chat about our food and wine. We started with some traditional gazpacho, the refreshing chilled tomato soup garnished with diced onion and peppers and a sumptuously light fritatta and followed it with braised bull’s tail, chicken with almonds and ‘flamenquin’ pieces of pork tenderloin wrapped in Iberican ham and breadcrumbs.
The following day we took a late lunch at Las Terasas, a very popular tapas bar with a ceiling covered with hanging cured hams. The locals must get sick of tourists taking up all the tables but one of the waiters spoke Japanese so I’m guessing they are happy for the extra business. We shared some superb marinated olives, slow-roasted peppers on crostini and thin slices of divine Iberican pork sausage.
After our last night in Seville we departed on the last leg of our journey, to Granada. On the way we had a familiar, farmy smell pierce its way into our car. When we stopped for gas we worked it out. Olives as far as the eye could see! Apparently Spain is an even bigger producer of olives than Italy. Quite a feat!
Granada offered the fantastic Alhambra, the most visited tourist site in all of Spain. It was formerly a fortress, citadel and palace over the ages and contains reputedly the most beautiful Islamic architecture in Europe. We concurred and followed our visit with a meal at a local taverna. We’d been hanging out for paella but since it is a Valencian dish, being seafood-based, we had held off until our final night. The Granadans did themselves proud and we enjoyed a thoroughly simple dish done very well. It was packed with fresh seafood and had a crispy base, a sign of quality in a paella.
España bien hecha…well done Spain. We can’t wait to return for more!






































I love tomatoes. They are one of the things I look forward to most in summer and I always grow half a dozen varieties each year. This year I grew around 25-30 plants with varieties such as Money Makers, Golden Sunrise, Tigerella, Strawberry tomatoes and Cherry tomatoes all doing very well. Last week I was picking 500g+ each night after work…very satisfying.
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